Get ready...to simplify I'm putting the whole of my diary at sea into this blog. Its broken down by day and by time too, so really should be easy reading. I enjoy it anyways :)
August 20th what a day.
It started out with me sprinting to catch the bus as it was coming up O’Connell Street behind me. Once again I was not prepared to walk as far as I had to to catch the bus so it was a sprint to the finish. Luckily there was a line of people with luggage waiting to get on so I had time to run there and get on just in time. Sheesh. Not a good start to this day. Once I got to the airport I had to check in with Ryanair. Their baggage limit is 15 not 20kg which I forgot (every airline does it different) so luckily I was underweight (for sure, since I checked at the last airport) then I got lost trying to find the security queue. Why, you ask? Because security happens through this tiny little door and if you’re not paying attention (which I so often am not) you miss the fact that through all 1000 people (my this airport seems packed today!) its right in front of you. Oops. So, I got that figured out and then panicked because the line really had 1000 people in it and was moving one little human at a time through the magic security portal and I was likely going to miss my flight. Oh man was that stressful! I got through security and once again found myself running. I had about 80 gates to go down this long corridor of course. I made it to the gate only to discover that they were all still in their queue and that Ryanair rarely leaves on time. Yes, I flew Ryanair again. Oh dread of dread, but cheapest.
Landing late in Faro (38 degrees Celsius WOW, it was raining heavily when I left Dublin) I took a taxi to the waterfront and caught up with Greg who was to be my skipper for the sailing trip.
He basically let me sit down for a minute to catch my breath and then we were off to the boat. That was it. No gentle transition. No parked at the marina so we could come ashore and eat and drink, no, straight to the boat!
His friend Mick gave us a lift in his RIB which was nice. We pulled up to this really scary little boat…I was probably freaking out by the reaction I got from Greg but he just laughed his head off and then off we went to his actual boat, they just wanted to see what I would do!
Once we got to Gregs boat I was relieved for sure. It was so pretty and bigger in real life, I’d only seen it in pictures. So I put my bag away and we were off to another anchorage near the entrance to the estuary.
We moved to this really terrific beach and there was a great café/bar etc and we didn’t get to go to either of them L the tide was moving at about 4 knots and there would have been no way to row the dinghy ashore and make it back so we just hung out on the boat instead. I took a nap and laid in the sun a bit. Then it was early to bed.
August 21st
2:30 am I was woken up with a thud. One of the catamarans had swung around when the tide changed and had banged into the front of us. The wind was howling. The guy onboard didn’t speak any English and didn’t’ seem to understand that all he had to do was shorten his anchor chain and we could all get back to bed but instead he just kept hollering something and waiting to see what we would do. Really annoying. So we pulled up anchor with me at the helm Yikes! and moved off away from him, reset the anchor and went back to bed. While I was up I noticed that all the stars were out. And I mean all the stars that fill a sky, horizon to horizon. Amazing! More stars than I’d ever seen. Greg decided we should set off about 6:30 am ish so we set alarms and off we went.
FROM HERE ON I WROTE NOTES ACCORIDING TO THE HOUR I CHECKED MY WATCH ETC. SO I WILL WRITE IT THAT WAY.
10AM all 3 sails up on a 240 degree course. Fred our auto pilot (literally a machine that keeps us on coures, I just named him) is in charge right now. I’ve successfully done tea and a bowl of cereal. Big whoop.
12:30pm getting used to rolling of the boat. The swell is hitting us broadside, abeam its called. So we are rocking pretty good from side to side. Greg said the swell was 3-5 meters. So far either the meds are working (for seasickness) or I don’t mind being at sea. Land is almost out of sight. Greg has taken a time out below. Scary!!
1:30pm time is going so fast. Its amazing too because there is nothing to see, nothing to do but maintain our course. LOVE IT THOUGH!!
Seeing what its like on the ocean, feeling the swell. Pretty awesome. Amazing amount of power in water! I went to the toilet. That was not easy. You have to maintain position and then commit to sit, do your thing all the while hoping it won’t splash you when a big roller hits.
2pm waves much bigger now. Not as liking this at the moment, wind picked up waves big. Container ship on our port side.
6:30 pm Huge boat eating waves!
We took the mainsail down. Greg took Fred off, I helmed into the wind and waves so he could lower it. Yikes! 20 knots of wind we are moving at 5-6 knots (Greg worked pretty hard to “slow” us down as the wind was howling past us and it was pretty uncomfortable) The sun just peeked around the canvas. Funny you notice that since its not usually there-west, means something is off. Fred took us due south for a minute, that’s what it was.
Did I mention how big these waves are? I tried to make tea (dinner) and almost fell onto the stove which was on. Not looking forward to tonight. We’ve decided to do 2 hours on 2 off. Funny I am not as freaked out as I thought I’d be by this. It’s pretty awesome really! These waves are amazing. Its like the bottom drops out from under you and just when you think its doing it again it eases you into the trough. I am not kidding these waves are swallowing this boat. Greg went and laid down and I panicked when our course changed. So I took Fred off and the boat reacted so much faster than I thought. What with giant waves and wind so I had to wake Greg up. Did I mention how blue the water is? Amazing. This whole thing is amazing. I just wish Tony could be here.
August 22nd
Its 7:30am we made it through the night. It was pretty wild. Waves and wind were the same only in the dark. You couldn’t see them coming. We saw ships. Huge ones! Greg talked to them about the weather on the radio. (channel 16) One boat we got so close to it shined a spotlight on us to see if we were okay. He was nice. The boat was really churning too, you could hear it. It was an eerie sound for sure! Especially being we could see the man onboard. We were headed almost south, no we are headed west by south. The wind has changed and is not as strong but the waves seem as severe. Still very steep once we get to the top. It will be this way from now on I suspect. (by the way~ that’s how the ocean is all the time…who knew!!)
I am a dirty disgusting mess right now. No teeth no deodorant no shower. Its going to get pretty bad. When you’re on deck there is a lot of seaspray so you end up kind of sticky. You and your clothes.
I am so tired. I am doing the head jerk thing. Trying not to fall into or out of the boat. Just in case though I’m wearing a life vest.
3:15pm almost slipped off the toilet just now, made me laugh!! Otherwise getting used to the feeling now. Its nice, Indescribable. (not the trips to the toilet)
August 23rd
Objects in GPS are closer than they appear. Don’t I wish.
Right now we are off the coast of Africa! I stink~ bath day. Last night I had watch from 3-5am and I watched the clouds roll in. We are overcast but the wind and waves are not bad. I hope any weather would pass by us. We are making good time. Today I saw fish jump. They are little blue ones. I hope to see dolphins soon. Just had a spit bath. It was really good. Hair is another problem it will wait 2 more days. Doing my bath I spent a bunch of time below without even thinking of sea sickness so that is good. Apparently the stink out weighed the waves.
Its amazing really I thought it would be smooth consistent waves. Life would be an easy one but the reality is that the waves are bigger and come from all sides. You just get accustomed to bracing yourself where ever you go. I can see why it helps to be prepared in all aspects because when your moving in a big swell you can’t fiddle with stuff. We just put a fishing line out. Hope we catch something. I am currently in shorts, had to let my “long” pants (sheesh) air out a bit. They are pretty ripe. Its also a new thing that there is always a fine spray on salt water. Its pretty continuous so after a while you are just kinda wet, damp maybe. I forgot to mention last night was the fist time I saw phosphorescent algae or plankton I guess. It’s the most amazing thing really beautiful. Each splash from the boat set off sparks basically. Like hundred of fire flys or something. Its really hard to describe. I’ve read where people have seen it, now I know what they mean, Greg said in the Caribbean its even brighter!
I am liking this a lot. The feeling of being out here is pretty overwhelming. The world seems a lot bigger when you can’t see any of it. It also seems to be the last refuge from humanity too. I can see why people like it. No one to mess with you. It’s just the ocean and the occasion bird (and huge tanker)
7:30pm Agadir Morocco 100 miles to our east right now. Madeira to our west. We will see land by Wednesday, possibly Tuesday if we head to Lanzarote first. I have gotten the hang of the kitchen now. Prepared dinner and did tea, dessert, like old hat. So much thought has to go into everything since its all sliding around.
One pot meals are key to this too. Dishes are a pain! So far to eat we’ve had potatoe with veg soup, potato with veg soup (part 2) with meat. Tonight we had chili in potato with veg soup and meat. Its good and hot. I made us tuna sandwiches for lunch, pretty basic but at least I’m getting around the kitchen now. I also discovered Greg bought a bunch of big yummy cheese so we had big slabs in our chili tonight. Yum! Still cloudy out but nothing else has changed, waves and wind waves and wind.
Greg wrote down notes on what to do if he goes over board. Oh man how insanely awful would that be!! Every time he goes out on deck (out of the cockpit) I try to keep an eye out. Help would be hours away. There is hardly even chatter on Channel 16. 7:30 also means we’ll be starting watches again soon.
Barometer 1010~ not dropping, no nasty weather, when it drops quick the weather is changing~bad). Misen and forsail are still up still doing 5 knots.
August 24th Monday??
Was a rough night appeared it might storm got real splashy and we picked up speed. I ended up sleeping more that my share too. Greg is now taking extra snoozes to catch up. I slept in the aft cabin last night. So much stuff banging around was hard to sleep.
According to the calculation we should hit Tenerife Wednesday. We’ll be able to see Lanzarote soon as well. (by the way, no we won’t…who knew) Amazing we’ve held almost the same course this whole time. 220-240 degrees, 5 knots of speed roughly. Its still cloudy but the sun peeks through now and then. I can’t believe how chilly its been. Canary Islands will feel really warm. I’m thinking at least a couple of days at the beach. We’ll be there almost 1 week before my flight to Madrid. I may go see if I can get on a standby flight and go sooner.
Only 1 ship in the last four days. Greg called them on the radio but the guy neither spoke English nor cared to stop his conversation with another person on the radio. Really annoying.
11:15am just saw Pilot whales! A whole bunch, like 4-5 I think, all playing around the boat!! It was great, Greg and I went up to the bow and I attempted to snap photos of them as they swam under the bow sprit. Really cool!!
5pm day 4, by far the most “calm” sailing we’ve had the whole time. Usually about now the weather picks up and it’s a rough ride through the night only to calm in the morning. Who knows. Since we are getting near land the pattern will change I imagine.
This whole trip has been really cool. Not what I expected at all! Who knew what sailing 5 days in the ocean was like!? Should get a chance to do laundry and relax in Santa Cruz before moving the boat to another port. I will have to get underway again.
Put up second forsail so its wing and wing, though the wind died down enough to not fill both. We’ll see if that lasts.
Have been using Anne’s travel towel as blanket during night watch but still cold so I planned to use my sleep sheet as well but Greg keeps using it to sleep with in the “hot bunk” so my ingenious plan may not work. (hot bunk is a term used when two people are sharing watch, one person gets up to take over and one goes to the bunk that’s still warm and gets some sleep)
August 25 8am
Another night of relatively smooth sailing. We went from 5 knots with help from the engine to turning it off and sailing at 6 knots. The wind picked up.
I ended up on watch with my sheet and towel it was so good! I should have thought of it sooner. I think the debate today is still to go to Lanzarote or on to Tenerife who knows. We had an awesome sunset last night and a really pretty sunrise happening as I speak. Really awesome! Greg just said to write: we sailed over a volcano last night. Sea mount they call it, it has an effect on the waves and wind.
3:05 pm Lots of snoozing today. Sun is out. We’re moving at 5 knots with the engine. Almost to Lanzarote. Which we are passing by. There are 2 ships on our sights now after seeing none for so long. We will have to be much more vigilant tonight as we are nearing the islands now. We should be getting to Tenerife mid day at our current speed. Sheesh!
The big ship from behind us made a course correction and moved off a collision course with us. It was a big one. You could hear its engine booming over the sound of our engine. Amazing! Greg called him on the radio for weather, same as now he said.
6:10pm just had a mini snooze, listened to music and repacked a little. Another ship is coming up behind us. Sheesh! Its going to be a long night of vigilant watch.
I got the thinking while I was lying down that I’ve lost some of my spark. I am just a bit tired. But I am feeling okay about the upcoming parts of my trip. I’ll muster the energy and enthusiasm for it and go out with a bang. I think when I get to home I’ll keep moving alittle bit. Definitely east caost somewhere. I’ll just job hunt and try to stay involved with sailing and see what happens.
8:30pm saw another huge cargo ship. Busy place this is!
Tonight I almost got seasick. After searching for dinner, clean up, dessert I about hurled when I saw rice pudding (my pick too)
So dinners have been stew, leftover stew with new ingredients to make more quanitiy stew. Then, Chili with old stew from second night. Stew again, potatoes veg and chorizo. Tonight day 5, left over stew combined with Portuguese can of beans with pork meat. ALL types. Hold on I need to puke. (just kidding) So I am really hoping we hit Tenerife soon enough to clean up and eat out! Because there is stew left L
August 26 8:20am
We will soon be in sight of land for the first time in 5 day. Weird! I was just starting to get into the routine of watches etc.
I think an ocean crossing would be pretty cool! We are berthing in Santa Cruz first for a few days yeah! Laundry shower beach!
Then moving the boat possibly to Gomera. I have almost a week to time to kill before my flight to Madrid so if I can stay on the boat for free I will, otherwise I’ll try standby to get to Madrid earlier!
Last night we saw a lot of ships. I had 4 in sight at one time.
Greg said the Volcano on Tenerife should be visible soon. Yeah!
11am Land ho! I just woke up from a snooze to find a big island in front of us! yeah! I bet when you go to the Caribbean its as exciting, probably more!
We are only 20 miles from it and another 6 hours of sailing at our current speed. Barely 4 knots with engine, the sea looks pretty calm. No dolphins yet. Greg saw flying fish while I was asleep.
Time Unknown; I took my watch off! No idea what time it is. Guessing around island o’clock.
Why would anyone not want to do this? Why would a person keep a good boat berthed when they could be out here. I mean seeing this big island appear and then get bigger is pretty cool. I can’t imagine what the people who did this first must have felt. It’s finally been warm enough for me to put my swim suit on. Other wise the wind was a little chilly.
The sea is very smooth right now which makes it really nice for sure. Its how I imagined the sea to be the whole time! Who knew!
Wind picked up as we rounded the corner toward Santa Cruz. You should see how huge this city is! And lots of little villages tucked into nooks in the mountains. Really pretty from here! It’s cloudy and looks like rain though too bad! I got all warm weather prepped and am now cold. Can’t win. I made a sandwich for Greg and I thought I’d have a tuna sammy but grabbed the Sardine pate instead, oops! Tastes just like fish though so I went with it.
THE JOURNAL STOPS HERE
Once we got to Santa Cruz we parked the boat and stumbled to the shower room (yeah!!) Greg could hardly walk he was so tired!
I couldn’t understand why the entire shower facility seemed to be rocking. It was so hilarious! I literally found myself bracing for a big swell. It was funny.
Once we got cleaned up we walked into the city to find a McDonalds that Greg knew about. Yes, McDonalds tastes the same here too. Magic!
Then after that we had a little stroll and I was so tired that I turned in around 9 ish.
Greg is having a friend visit him here so we are not moving the boat after all.
The photos are of Greg's boat, Me on my first afternoon (totally unsuspecting) then a picture of my hair and then my sad face...I'm ready for a bath